An Open Letter To President Elect Obama

OBAMA-large Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Dear President Elect,

Congratulations on your hard-won victory.  Now the work begins, and in the weeks ahead you will be making some much-publicized appointments. 

I know how things work in D.C. -- I make big donations to your campaign and you appoint me some cushy position in the new Administration.  And I've done my part, donating more than double the amount of your average donor.  And now it's payback time - I'm here with my hand out, humbly requesting that you honor your part of the deal.

An Ambassadorship to one of the world's wine growing countries would be nice.  France or Italy would be our preference, though I imagine we could settle nicely in Spain or Germany or Austria as well. 

Of course, you may already have candidates in mind for these posts, and I'm not sure how much political currency is in my account after a $200 donation and a few phone calls.  So if I'm over-reaching, allow me to suggest a more humble position - that of White House Sommelier.

All kidding aside, I hope you agree that your new wine steward should build the white house cellar to showcase the diverse wines of our great nation.  There are many exciting developments in the 6,000+ wineries found in our various American Viticultural Areas - from those on the West Coast to those on Long Island and everywhere in between (including over 70 wineries in your own Great State of Illinois.)   The vast majority of these producers are small family-run affairs, with all the vagaries of agricultural uncertainty adding to the usual stresses and strains of the small business experience.  Want to meet an American business hero?  Look no further than the small winery owner.

The White House cellar should reflect the best efforts of these most venerable entrepreneurs.  I urge you to select your Sommelier not only for his or her wine knowledge, but for his or her zealous enthusiasm and promotion of these American businesses at every state dinner.

Dtwm_color web optimized Cheers!

Dave the Wine Merchant

P.S. Should you have difficulty in making your selection, I've taken the liberty of polling a few opinions - see what the blogosphere has to say... (can't see the survey?  Link to it here.)


November 17, 2008

Holiday Recipe Flash - Steamed Persimmon Pudding

A Chambers Family Recipe - Steamed Persimmon Pudding
How many times must one make a recipe before it becomes their own?  Once?  Ten times?  Fifty?  Whatever the answer, I think I'm agey enough and have made this wonderful steamed pudding often enough to call it a family recipe, even if I did get it from the wonderful Marion Cunningham at her cooking class in 1997.

Although I currently carry no wines that will nicely compliment your Thanksgiving dessert (which call for a nice ice wine, Vin de Glacier, or late harvest dessert wine!) I can't resist sharing this recipe with you.  Call it repayment for having read this far.  If you can overcome the hurdles necessary to get this pulled together, you'll find that it is a family favorite at your house too.

This recipe is In the great tradition of England's "Figgy Puddings", though that requires some explanation.  The English term "pudding" is synonymous with our term "dessert".  And Figgy Pudding implies a dessert made from figs that has been steamed - originally while wrapped in several layers of cloth.  Figgy Pudding was a rather downscale holiday dessert.

Steamed Pudding Mold, $15 at Des Idees This dessert is anything but downscale.  It still relies on several hours of cooking in boiling water, but inside a metal mold - either the fancy version shown at left, or an ad-hoc version consisting simply of an old coffee can or two.  Enough ado.  Here's the recipe.

 

Ingredients

1 cup pureed persimmon (~ 2 large persimmons, skins removed)

2 tsp. Baking soda

8 Tbs (1 stick) butter at room temperature

1.5 cups sugar

2 eggs

1 Tbs lemon juice

2 Tbs rum

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 tsp. Cinnamon (I like to double this amount!)

½ tsp. Salt

1 cup broken walnuts or pecans

1 cup raisins (I like to mix regular and golden)

Fill a kettle large enough to hold a 2 Qt pudding mold with enough water to come halfway up the sides.  (2 coffee containers covered tightly with foil will do - fill only ¾ full as the pudding expands.)  Let the water come to a boil over medium heat while you mix the pudding batter.

Grease the mold well.  Every nook and cranny.  Butter is best. 

 

In a glass mixing bowl, combine the persimmon puree and baking soda.  Set aside while mixing the other ingredients (the persimmon mixture will stiffen).

Cream the butter and sugar.  Add the eggs, lemon juice, and rum and beat well.  Add the flour, cinnamon, and salt, and stir to blend.  Add the persimmon mixture and beat until well mixed.  Stir in raisins and nuts.

Spoon the batter into the mold, cover tightly, and steam for approximately two hours.  I've had my best luck finishing the pudding in a 350 oven for about 20 minutes before letting rest for 10-15  minutes and then unmolding.  Re-heat just before serving, and top with unsweetened whipped cream, or a crème Anglais.  For added celebration, warm 2 Tbsp of rum in a sauce pan for ten seconds, light and immediately pour flaming rum over top of unsliced pudding.  Take to table in a darkened room and allow to expire (flame lasts for 20-40 seconds, so work quickly!)


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Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com or
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Today’s Quote:
"What we're really talking about is a wonderful day set aside on the fourth Thursday of November when no one diets.  I mean, why else would they call it Thanksgiving?" 

~ The Immortal Erma Bombeck (1927 - 1966), from "No One Diets on Thanksgiving," 26 November 1981


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November 13, 2008

Wines for your Turkey (and yams and dressing and cranberries and...)

Info on Radog Gewurztraminer Thursday, November 13th, 2008
Although I always think of Gewurztraminer as the wine to compliment baked ham, tasting panels continuously indicate it is a stellar choice for the varied flavors on the Thanksgiving table as well.  And you can't do better than this affordable beauty - with it's lower alcohol and budget-loving price tag ($19) you'll want to get more than one bottle of the Radog 2007 Gewurztraminer.

Another great wine that always shows well in Thanksgiving tasting panels is a domestic Riesling.  Some of the most expensive white wines in the world are made from this versatile grape, and I suggest either of these two as excellent pals for your turkey, tofurkey or other Thanksgiving dish.

  • Tudor, 2007 Riesling, $14- Closer to the classic Rhine model than the '05 vintage I also carried. A nose full of classic Riesling aromas - floral, stone fruits, lychee, and hints of bitter almond - but the natural acidity was so high that Winemaker Dan Tudor used this wine's natural of fruity goodness to provide balance and complement the natural bitter almond that is a Riesling hallmark (and part of its allure!)

  • More info on Roessler's 2005 Riesling from Wiley Vineyard Roessler, 2004 Riesling, Wiley Vineyard, $18 - For fans of aged Riesling, this wine is beginning to provide the coveted petrol aromas that mark these wines as they develop bottle bouquet.  Capable of aging for years, this wine is very nice right now, and is one I re-tasted recently at on of my wine classes.  The Wiley Vineyard is found in California's Anderson Valley, and is a rising star for cool-weather varietals like this one.

Red Wine Options
Of course, not everybody loves white wine with Thanksgiving, and for those people I have but one word - Pinot.  We have SO MANY great pinots to offer that it seems unfair to highlight one or two, so I'm providing this link to our full pinot portfolio, which ranges in price from under $15 to over $60 - a wine to fit every budget!

Roast turkey is a most versatile dish that goes well with a wide variety of wines, so why am I so enthused about pinots for Thanksgiving?  Because most homes don't serve naked turkey on a plate!  Once you factor in the variety of dishes people enjoy on Thanksgiving, you need a wine that easily crosses a lot of flavor boundaries.  To beat the geographic analogy to death, one might say it's a wine that brings its passport and visa to every table, ready at a moment's notice to be paired with a wide variety of flavors.

And that's exactly what you need when your plate holds sweet/tart cranberries, sweet yams, salty gravy, dressing (often featuring mushrooms, herbal notes, and sometimes apples and nuts) something green (with perhaps a bit of herbal bitterness?) and the most versatile of all - the roast turkey.


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Today’s Quote:
"Thanksgiving dinners take eighteen hours to prepare and are consumed in twelve minutes.  Half-times take twelve minutes.  This is not coincidence.

~ Erma Bombeck (1927 - 1996)


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October 24, 2008

Where'd the green boxes go?

Swclogogs3x3_10Friday, October 24, 2008
This morning's inbox contained a brief email missive from D. Rosedahl - a long-time member of our bi-monthly sampling club - who asks

"Where'd the green boxes go?  Same way as Lucky Strikes Green?

His first reference was to our recently depleted, chartreuse-colored, logo boxes that faithfully carried wines to our club members for almost four years.  His latter reference is to a long-defunct cigarette brand.

Lucky strike And I'm sorry to say I'm old enough to remember ads for this long-dead brand of cigarettes (click image to purchase from "Prints Old & New").  This old ad makes me hope that wine's much ballyhooed health benefits are longer lived, and viewed more kindly by our progeny.

So yes, our easily-identified green boxes are gone.  We spent thousands to create these cute little wine cocoons, back in our cash-rich start-up days.  Back when the stock market was soaring and we thought we could retire on our home equity.

Today, such an expenditure seems imprudent without passing along the cost to members.  And I think I'd rather put their money towards great wine than great packaging.

What are your thoughts on the topic of packaging?


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Dtwm_color_web_optimized Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com or
Dave@TastesOfTheValleys.com

Today’s Quote:
"More and more products are coming out in fiercely protective packaging designed to prevent consumers from consuming them. These days you have to open almost every consumer item by gnawing on the packaging."
~ Dave Berry (1947 - a long time from now, I hope)


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October 23, 2008

Syrah Palin? A wine even Joe the Plumber could love.

Syrah Palin Label2 Thursday, October 23, 2008
There is a wide range of people who enjoy wine.  I've popped corks with delightful people with very different religions, races, socio-economic and political stripes.  So I everything I can to keep my personal politics out of my business.  But when my news readers deliver something like this to my desktop (Thank you Mr. Peare!), I simply can not resist.

This fascinating tidbit of wine news came from a most unlikely source (Fox News).  They had come across a wine suffering a sales decline in San Francisco due to its unfortunate name - the Palin Syrah.  The wine was not created as an homage to a certain hockey mom-come-Veep-candidate.  It's not even pronounced the same way - Pay-LEEN, not PAY-len.  But you can't tell that from the label.

Syrah Palin Full In the complete article about this happenstance, Fox News shines their Fair and Balanced spot light on the fact that the wine is flying off the shelves in "the Republican stronghold of Texas", but suffering in the more liberal city of San Francisco.

The Fox article states "The wine was once a strong seller, but now it's an outcast in the City by the Bay because its name comes way too close to a certain governor from the state of Alaska", says Celine Guillou, co-owner of the Yield Wine Bar.

Given that today's polls a gap between the candidates that ranges from just 1% all the way to 10%, perhaps monitoring sales of the Palin Syrah is a more accurate barometer than hoards of statistical pollsters.

But I think it unwise and unfair to encourage such a thing.  After all, some Chilean winegrower put a lot of time and effort into this wine, and Berkeley Imports is surely sitting on a goodly supply.  Who are we to tie their success to the fortunes of one struggling party at election time? 

Let's just enjoy the wine for what it is - an affordable and enjoyable wine to assist in your November 4th party, whether celebrating the victory or the defeat of this namesake candidate!


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Dtwm_color_web_optimized Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com or
Dave@TastesOfTheValleys.com

Today’s Quote:
"We must be willing to get rid of the life we've planned, so as to have the life that is waiting for us."
~ Joseph Campbell (1904-1987)


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October 21, 2008

Sideways Wine Club Announces October Selections

Swclogogs3x3_10 Tuesday, October 21 2008
Historians blame Hubris (excessive pride) for the fall of the Roman Empire.  Hubris is not an attractive trait, whether in powerful governments or Wine Merchants.  And in this particular merchant, my allocatoin of the affliction almost made me dismiss the first wine in today's list.

I nearly left this rare gem untasted simply because I’d never heard of the varietal, or the vineyard, or the Winemaker.  But in the end I said “What the hell?” and agreed to taste the Winemaker's samples.  Boy am I glad I did.  Today's first wine is a rare and unique varietal with sketchy but historic roots in California's wine history.  And it provides a great lead-in for the rest of this month's stellar line-up of boutique wines, many of which you're unlikely to find just about anywhere. 

Case discounts begin at 10% for non-members.

Our October Wine Selections

  1. Fanucchi Vineyards, 2005 Trousseau Gris, $24 - A nearly extinct gem from the last Trousseau Gris vineyard in California.  Try this wine both for the pleasure it gives and its historic significance.  Read the full story here.
  2. Osseus, 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, $18.50 - One of my favorite Sauvignon Blancs from a talented Micro-Boutique producer.  Only 250 cases produced!
  3. Andrew Murray, 2006 Syrah "Tous les Jours", $16.50 - In the movie 'Sideways', Maya suggests various wines for she and Miles to share, and when she shows him this bottle, Miles responds with "Ahhhh, Andrew Murray", as if he's just been reminded of an old friend he hasn't thought of for a while.  I hope this wine attains that same status for you, as it is perfect for your every day house red.
  4. White Hawk Vineyard, 2002 Red Table Wine, $23 - You'll never see this wine in most stores, as it is the showcase wine used by the owners of this prestigious vineyard, whose fruit appears on the labels of such cult wines as those from Sine Qua Non, as well as Herman Story, Calera, Clos Mimi and Piedrasassi, to name a few. The average price of these wines is around $50/bottle.
  5. Beckmen Vineayrds, 2006 Estate Grenache, $24.50 - A classic Rhone wine from this bio-dynamic estate, though a bit broader in the beam than many wines from this varietal.  Bottled with a bit of CO2, as is often found in the original version of this wine.
  6. RiverBench, 2006 Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley, $36 - Crafted by the experienced hand of Chuck Otrman, this is one of his latest projects after selling his Meridian label almost ten years ago.  Chuck bought fruit from RiverBench Vineyards while at Meridian, and is now producing wine from their best rows of grapes.  Already our leading re-order wine.
  7. Labyrinth, 2006 Pinot Noir, Bien Nacido Vineyard, $35 - I continue to be pleased by Rick Hill's wines.  Though only in his eighth year as a winemaker, Rick crams in two vintages per year, flying to the Southern Hemisphere to harvest pinot in New Zealand.  So he has the equivalent of 16 years of winemaking experience.  It is the slow, year-long wait between vintages that led to the saying "One lifetime is not enough to master pinot noir".  Judging from his wines, Rick is well on his way to cramming two lifetimes worth of experience into a single ride on our globe.

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Dtwm_color_web_optimized Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com or
Dave@TastesOfTheValleys.com

Today’s Quote:
"The Cardiologist's Diet - If it tastes good, spit it out"
~ Unknown


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October 13, 2008

Ode to David Lett, Eyrie Vineyards

Eyrie_logo Monday, October 13th, 2008
I sat down at my desk this morning with a million things to do.  I began with a quick review of emails to check for overnight emergencies.  And there I saw the headline "...Eyrie Founder David Lett Dies".  "It can't be" was my first reaction.  David Lett, the fun, curmudgeonly driving force behind Oregon wines, and producer of my favorite Oregon Pinot.  He was only 69, which at my age, seems far too young to be called home.  (Read the full story in the Oregonian)

David_lett_1_2For those unfamiliar with his history, it was David's third-place wine in the 1979 international competition that put Oregon Pinot on the map, and attracted the attention of Burgundian producers such as Joseph Drouhin, whose daughter now runs the family's Oregon winery.

David and I weren't friends, or even acquaintances.  I like to think it was a potential friendship thwarted by geography rather than temperament or politics.  I thoroughly enjoyed the Lett's and their wines during our two very brief encounters.  Both took place at 'Society of Wine Educators' events held in Oregon, where photos and stories of the Letts seasoned many of the presentations by local vintners and growers.  David was always memorable, as were his wines.

David_lett2 I met the Lett's during the mass tasting, humbly serving their wines, which stood out even among the impressive line-up.  In the sea of increasingly sweet and extracted wine that is today's pinot noir market, Eyrie pinots remain elegant, food-friendly and Burgundian - a delightful departure from today's fad wines. 

Jason_lett

My sadness at today's news is because I admire what David accomplished, and the way that he did it.  I'll miss the twinkle in his eye as he delivers a comment, wry and dry.  He will be missed.  I can only hope that his wines will continue.

I read that Eyrie Vineyards will continue under the direction of David's son, Jason (left).  I send my condolences, warm regards and best wishes for his continued success.  And, not to meddle or anything, but I also send my sincere hope that he continues to craft wines in the delightful and elegant style pioneered by his father.

For those who wish to help me pay tribute to David, I reprint here from his family's death notice:

"David cared deeply for the land and for his family. In lieu of flowers or gifts, David’s legacy can be memorialized through gifts to “1000 Friends of Oregon”, his favorite land-use advocacy organization, or “Families United”, a local non-profit that supports assisted living for adults with autism and other developmental disabilities."


Dtwm_color_web_optimized Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com or
Dave@TastesOfTheValleys.com

Today’s Quote:
"Diana asked me a couple of weeks ago, “What would you have done differently?” And the fact of the matter is, I would have done it the same way."
~ David Lett, Eyrie Vineyards (1939 - 2008)

September 30, 2008

Nikitas Magel Interviews Dave the Wine Merchant

Vinikitasportraitflipped Monday, September 22, 2008
Wine Blogger Nikitas Magel (whose beautiful website can be enjoyed at www.vinikitas.com ) attended my September wine class at Reaves Gallery in San Francisco.  In preparing his post about the event, we held an email interview that is copied here.

NM: Dave, what's your background in wine?  How long have you been in the industry?  And what led you to where you are today?

DC: I remember two things from 1979.  First, I graduated from college, and second, I knew I hated wine.  I had reached this conclusion scientifically, through repeated tastings.  The wine I tastes was an unpleasant combination of Cribari jug wine and 7-Up.  This frightful concoction was served at our college parties, it's lack of quality more than offset by its tasteful service - usually a small wading pool complete with rubber ducks.  If it was served at a high-class event, and if we had a few extra bucks in the kitty, the ducks competed with sliced fruit for clear passage.  Each of my samplings resulted in the same unfavorable judgment, and my dislike for "wine" was confirmed as solidly as my belief in gravity.

I was finally introduced to good wine in 1981 during an alumni event at Callaway Vineyards.  At that time, Callaway was an emerging producer of quality white wines from their estate vineyards in Temecula.  I was shocked!  I actually enjoyed them!  I became convinced that my repetitive, scientific tastings during my college years had led me astray because they were limited to RED wines, while I was a natural white wine drinker.

That early epiphany launched an exciting period of experimentation.  My roommates and I bought the best white wine our meager budgets allowed, and we learned to cook specifically to see what paired best with each wine.  We held various sorts of wine-themed parties primarily as an excuse to meet women, and were rather pleased with the results.  I remember that we mastered fondue, having bought a fondue pot for a buck at a garage sale.  It was a fun period of exploration and discovery.  On many levels.

But it took me another year to come to red wines.  It happened at a steak restaurant while visiting friends in San Jose.  “Shall we have wine with dinner?” they asked. 

“As long as it’s white!” I replied.   

“You can’t drink white wine with steak!” they said “Let's order a bottle of red and if you don’t like it, you can order a glass of white wine.”  That was the night I tasted my first high-quality red wine – a Heitz Cellars Cabernet. I was stunned.  Literally stopped in my tracks.  I had no idea a wine could be so pleasurable and thought-provoking.

That launched a frenzied decade of wine classes and wine events.  I was single at the time, so my evenings and weekends were largely my own, and I filled them with wine events.

I began teaching classes in the early 90’s out of necessity.  After following a job in a small Michigan town with virtually no wine culture, I decided to create my own by teaching wine appreciation classes.  I know of at least one major wine fan who can be traced back to those classes, as he and his family are still friends and customers of mine.

I kept taking and hosting classes for another decade after moving to San Francisco (wine Mecca!), and I still enjoy few aspects of the business more than sharing my love and enthusiasm for food and wine.  I'd wanted to get into the industry throughout much of my corporate career, but never wanted to take the pay cut!  I'd even worked in tasting rooms on weekends, assisted with a harvest or two, and tried to develop winery marketing programs in my off hours.  But could never cross the Rubicon of corporate security.

But when the dot-com meltdown occurred in 2001, I found myself out of work and with few companies hiring.  That was all the impetus I needed!

Swclogogs3x3_10 NM: What's the story of the Sideways Wine Club?  What led to its inception?  How is it different from other wine retail enterprises?

DC: I’d been working in corporate America for two decades, growing increasingly disenchanted but unable to tear away from the lucrative cash flow.  I began working in tasting rooms on the weekends, just to keep learning about wine, and began traveling to France, Italy and other wine-producing regions to learn in situ.  But it wasn’t until the dot-com meltdown of 2001 that my cash flow was severed and I decided to launch my wine career. 

At first I leveraged my professional background by offering online marketing services to wineries.  For one client - Bonny Doon Vineyard - a six-week project expanded into 2 ½ years.  It was more fun than most people ever get to have at work (or with their clothes on, for that matter!) but it also made me realize I couldn’t reach my financial goals while consulting for wineries. 

Coincidentally, about the same time I was winding down my consulting arrangement with Bonny Doon, the movie “Sideways” was released in October, and was a well-established surprise hit and likely Oscar nominee by December.  As I was casting about to see what was next for me, I began making inquiries about launching my own wine club under the Sideways license, and finally launched the entity on April 1st of 2005.  To commemorate each anniversary, I write an April Fool's day posting for this blog.

How does it differ from other retail enterprises?  It may sound trite, but the real difference is the people involved, more than simply its unique brand.  Very few enterprises have a face behind the brand these days.  I mean, who can you contact at Wine.com?  Wine Commune?  BevMo??  Even some of the great wine retailers are completely anonymous, especially online, and some of the best local merchants are nearly invisible online.  We still have humans on the front lines, my name on every email, and a personal reply to each inquiry.  More than our unique brand, that’s what differentiates us.

NM: What prompted you to begin teaching classes now?  What do you hope to accomplish with your classes?  What's your favorite aspect of teaching them?

DC: I hosted wine classes and tasting groups throughout the 90's, but by 1999 my work load became oppressive and eclipsed my wine classes (each of which required 20-30 hours in preparation).  But when I got involved with the wine shop “Tastes of the Valleys” in Solvang, I began teaching again, and remembered how enjoyable it was to share my enthusiasm with others.

It was a casual meeting with an old friend that resulted in the monthly “Third Tuesday” classes at Reaves Gallery in San Francisco.  The gallery space limitations mandate small, intimate classes of 10 - 15 people.  The classes have developed a nice group of regulars who look forward to catching up and sharing new wine discoveries each month.  I love it!

NM: Future plans or changes for the club?  For the classes?

DC: There are so many things to talk about!  I am always looking for ways to break the model and re-invent what I’m doing.  That assures that I remain both enthusiastic and prepared for whatever comes next in our industry. 

My top predictions for the wine industry in ten years?  I will be very different.  Look specifically for a new wave of opinion leaders as well as a vastly different distribution landscape.  Watch for mobile computing and other forms of electronic communities to have increasingly significant roles.  Moderate consumption of wine will be increasingly recognized as a healthy part of a daily diet, so watch for wine to grow ever more common on our dinner tables at home.


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Dtwm_color_web_optimized Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com or
Dave@TastesOfTheValleys.com

Today’s Quote:
"Laughter and tears are both responses to frustration and exhaustion.
I myself prefer to laugh, since there is less cleaning up to do afterward.
"
----Kurt Vonnegut, US novelist (1922 - 2007)


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September 19, 2008

Smoke Taint

Swclogogs3x3Friday, Sept 19, 2008
I sat down at my desk this morning and sighed.  Too much to do.  Too little time.  Thoughts of financial disasters on Wall Street still loomed large, and I've been taking solace in the simple pleasures that wine and food provide.  But they weren't much comfort right now, with such a long to-do list for the day.

Immediately, I switched into crisis mode.  Which for me, means I began reading the latest wine news instead of tending to tasks.  Avoidance often works.  But not this time.  Right there in the headlines of the day is the news that the 2008 grape harvest may be tainted by the smoke that hung in the air during the two months worth of wild fires we enjoyed in late spring.

Ca_wild_fires Reports of this off-putting aroma and flavor have been cropping up as the harvest comes in, though not universally.  Various wine labs are reporting droves of samples coming in for tests of smoke taint, which shows itself as an essence of smoked salmon.  Might the simple solution be to pair all 2008 wines with smoked salmon so the flaw isn't apparent?  Oh right, salmon are scarce these days.  Bad idea.

But the worst part of the news is that some areas are reporting problems, while spokespeople for other areas deny that their area was affected.  Is this simply the vagaries of Mother Nature punishing some areas and not others, or are some winemakers simply in denial?

If so, wine lovers will find the 2008 vintage either fine, smoke-tainted or highly filtered.  Filtration labs have the means to remove smoke taint from wine, if one doesn't mind leaving other desirable flavor bits on the filter pad at the same time. 

I'll keep you updated on the smoke taint reports as they develop.  In the meantime, may I direct you to the still ample supply of prior vintages available in our online store?

Dtwm_color_web_optimized Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com or
Dave@TastesOfTheValleys.com

Today’s Quote:
"Free Enterprise when we're successful!  Socialism when we're not!"
~ Wall Street, September 2008


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September 16, 2008

Doug Margerum: Vinifying Sauvignon Blanc

Swclogogs3x3Tuesday, September 16th, 2008
I can't believe another week has gone by.  For some time now, the frequency of my postings has been anemic.  When I'm busy with activities outside my blog, it must appear as if I've lost interet.  Or decided my professional experience qualifies me as a presidential candidate.  But in truth, I've been teaching a lot of wine classes, which I enjoy, and tending to administrative duties, which I do not.

But today's big news is that we're adding a great new winemaker to our bevy of wines being poured at Tastes of the Valleys our wine shop and tasting bar in Solvang.  Doug Margerum is the talent behind the wines of Happy Canyon Vineyard (Barrack's Chukker, Piocho, Ten Goal and Brand) that have proven so popular with our customers, but he also produces ultra-premium wines under his own eponymous label. 

Soon, you can taste Doug's wines regularly at Tastes of the Valleys.  Until then, here's a video clip of Doug introducing his approach to Sauvignon Blanc, which is absolutely and very simply delicious:

We could not be more pleased!

Dtwm_color_web_optimized Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com or
Dave@TastesOfTheValleys.com

Today’s Quote:
"...The best way to get out of trouble is not to get into it in the first place"
~ Ben Bernanke


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September 10, 2008

My long silence, explained. I've been busy. Dave 4 Pres!

Thursday, September 10, 2008

After seeing some of the resumes of our current candidates for our country's top office, I decided it was worth throwing my hat into the ring.  At first, I thought it was just a fluke, but now, as you can see (below), it's picked up quite a lot of momentum!  Click the video to view...

If I'm to have any hope of overcoming the political powerhouses, I'll need your support.  Please send your checks to me directly, made out to "Dave the Wine Merchant for President".  All those contributing more than $100 will recieve whatever wine is left over at our wine bar.

But seriuosly, aside from this impressive spoof from the minds behind paltalk.com, I could use your vote. It's just that, I could use your vote for my blog, and I could use it before November!  Remember, vote daily!

Dtwm_color_web_optimized Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com or
Dave@TastesOfTheValleys.com

Today’s Quote:
"We'd all like to vote for the best man, but he's never a candidate"
~Frank McKinney Hubbard"


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August 25, 2008

Good Bye to the Bonny Doon Tasting Room

Randall_grahmMonday, August 25th, 2008
About 8 years ago, I left the world of corporate marketing to pursue a life of wine.  One of my early consulting gigs was with Bonny Doon Vineyard, the iconoclastic, rule-bending producer whose marketing mantra is "Don't be boring".  It is the only client I've ever had where the prevailing paradigm included phrases like "if we don't get a few complaints from everything we do, we're not being creative enough!"

In early 2002, I started consulting on a six-week project that expanded into 2.5 years worth of activities.  Working at "the Doon" is like going through boot camp.  I still have friends from those days.  And, though we have mostly scattered to the far corners of the wine world, we enjoy keeping in touch, swapping new wine discoveries and recipes, attending each other's weddings, and supporting new career moves. 

So this news of the closing of the old Bonny Doon tasting room north of Santa Cruz marks the end of a chapter.  It was a dilapidated facility, held together with personality and chewing gum.  I'm not surprised it's closing, but will miss the idea of it, though it will always remain alive in my mind's eye.  Here is the announcement from Randall Grahm, replicated here by permission.  As usual, it is a good read, as one expects from the pen of the "President for Life":


Message from Randall Grahm

Pine Flat: An Appreciation and Reminiscence

(Visit our Bonny Doon Tasting Room Today! We're moving in November)

Bdv_tr_front_2 It's been a while since I've spent much time hanging out at the tasting room and old winery in Bonny Doon; the penultimate time was the night of the recent Martin Rd. fire, rummaging around by flashlight for precious, indispensible objects. There was plenty of wine at peril - well, we could always make more wine - but I observed so many artifacts, subtle reminders of all of the goofy schemes, initiatives hare-brained or brilliant that were undertaken at one point or another, the zillion D.E.W.N. art labels that John Locke had engineered. The Castanedan term "controlled folly" came to mind - though it was not clear how much control there ever was or ever would be. There were still reminders of tasting room staff who had been there forever. Kathleen Proffitt's cackle reposes in the DNA of the building.

I have lately been flooded with memories of the old winery and tasting room, and some are indelible. I remember when the winery building was originally built out to its current footprint - it was essentially a remodel of a remodel of an equipment rental shed. I don't remember precisely what month it was in 1984 - I'm thinking November, just after harvest, but it was a Sunday morning and I came in very early to check on something or other, only to find that the water heater shed was on fire. It was a dreamlike experience, reaching for a garden hose to try to douse the flames, but of course, the electricity was out and the pump didn't work and the fire sprinkler system was inoperative for some other reason - yes, I think that it was just due to be installed. So, I just watched the flames grow and grow until the Bonny Doon Fire Team arrived, rather in the nick of time, to put the blaze out. We rebuilt the winery, didn't lose too much wine and there was ample opportunity for some heavy toast humor - Charredonnay, Cabburnet, Côte-Rotie, etc.

I remember the dark day when a diversion valve - that which diverted the run-off from the crush pad into a storage tank rather than into a culvert which fed into Mill Creek - malfunctioned and we inadvertently dumped 100 gallons of spent wine from the distillery into aforesaid creek. The officer from Fish and Game was not very happy, but not as unhappy as I was.

There were some incredible moments. I remember when I first met André Ostertag, the brilliant winemaker from Alsace, who has subsequently become my friend. André had just flown in from Paris, apparently taken a bus from the airport to Santa Cruz, another bus to Davenport and seemingly walked the balance of the way. (Maybe he hitch-hiked.) He was very tired and very sweaty. This had to have been 1985 or so, and André's command of the English language was not yet perfect. "It's such a great pleasure to meet you, André," I said. "Thank you," he said, and in very halting English, "but if I may bother you, what I really need now is a douche."¹

Sammy Hagar came to visit one day ("Man, like I totally missed Davenport.")² and spent the afternoon tasting through everything in the house. We loaded up his Porsche with eight or nine cases of wine and Potstill Brandy and observed him depart into the twilight, his red taillights now just a flickering retinal after-image.

John Locke himself showed up at the doorstep of the tasting room one day, his red Honda Civic packed to the gills with Lockean impedimenta. He had driven cross-country from Washington, D.C. - one imagines non-stop - to come and work at Bonny Doon, having learned about the winery at a shop in the East Coast. The thought of actually calling before showing up had just never occurred to him. "I'll work for free," he offered. "You're on," I said. Many illustrious Bonny Doon alumni - Ted Pearson, Rebecca Foulk and Anita Cabanilla come immediately to mind - began their wine career working in the tasting room.

Marco di Grazia brought his entourage of "Barolo Boys" to visit the winery in the late '80s. These were my heroes, the greatest winemakers of Piemonte - which is essentially equivalent to saying the greatest in the universe - and they were here, sitting on the deck of the tasting room, feasting on abalone, which we procured from the abalone farm down on the coast. Many of them had never left Italy to that point, i.e. had never had seen a redwood tree, and they were really digging the awe-inspiring beauty and peacefulness of this unique place that we have been so lucky to enjoy for so long.

I think mostly of the extraordinary people who have come to work at the tasting room - the charismatic managers, Sandy Mast and Katherine Stalmann, who were there for decades, and who had the keenest ability to ferret out talent and personality among the stellar people who had come to work in the tasting room over the years. I am not exaggerating at all when I report that I have been all over the world and virtually everywhere I go, someone, a stranger, will report to me that he or she has recently visited our tasting room and have been enormously impressed by the warmth and knowledgeability of the servers they have met there.

I cannot say how much I already miss the old place and what sweet memories of it will remain. Our new tasting room, which will be located at the winery in Westside Santa Cruz, has a different feel. Obviously no redwoods, no spectral apparitions suddenly appearing from out of the mist - Bonny Doon has always in fact been Brigadoon. But, the opportunity we have down at Ingalls Street is to really show our customers what we are doing - to delve deeper into an exposition of the wines, how they were made, how they work with food, for example. The new tasting room is under construction and despite the context of its gritty industrial neighborhood; it already shines like a precious stone. It is as magical as it is unexpected, and reflects the real depth of our commitment to producing great wine. I can promise you that you will be delighted... Stay Dooned! and I invite you to experience where a passion and lifelong quest for vins de terroir began more than 25 years ago in the bucolic hamlet of Bonny Doon.

____________________________
¹ (Fr.) Shower
² He can't drive fifty-five.


Good bye, Pine Flat. I'll remember you fondly.

Dtwm_color_web_optimized Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com or
Dave@TastesOfTheValleys.com

Today’s Quote:
How lucky I am to have something that makes saying goodbye so hard"


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August 24, 2008

The Invisible Wineries of the Cental Coast

Sunday, August 24th, 2008
Justin, Turley, Firestone, Bridlewood, Meridian, Fess Parker… everyone knows the big names among Central Coast wineries. A lucky few have even visited their beautiful tasting rooms. But where does one go to taste premium wines, hand-crafted by the likes of Bonnacorsi, Labyrinth, Arcadian, Au Bon Climat? The Central Coast wine pilgrim is quickly disappointed when they realize many boutique producers operate out of shared production facilities and have no tasting rooms of their own. Shared facilities are quite the big deal these days, as they've launched many premium brands. There are a number of reasons a talented winemaker chooses to produce through a shared facility:

  1. Insufficient start-up funds
  2. Inability to get a license of their own
  3. Fatigue caused by bosses who insist on compromised product quality

Ccws_bldgThe Central Coast has been a hotbed for such facilities, which have attracted some of the globe's top winemaking talent as a result. It all began with the venerable Central Coast Wine Services, founded in 1988. With facilities in Santa Maria (Santa Barbara County) and Templeton/Paso Robles (San Luis Obispo County), CCWS boasts a long client list, well peppered with premium wineries. CCWS is  affectionately(?) known as "The Asylum" for the crazed spirit it harbors during harvest, when every winemaker clamors for equipment that sits idle for the rest of the year, and truckloads of grapes wait to be crushed.

"The Ghetto" is the nickname for a series of tilt-up industrial buildings situated in the seaside town of Lompoc (yes, the one with the military base shown in the old movie "Top Gun").  Here, a short but growing list of prestigious winemakers ply their craft, including Fiddlehead Cellars, Sea Smoke Cellars, Brewer-Clifton, Palmina and Piedrasassi/Holus Bolus. A few of these wineries have serviceable tasting rooms, though they are a far cry from the bucolic tasting experience often associated with wineries situated amongst the vines. Still, for those more interested in new wine discoveries than the vineyard gestalt, this is one way to taste some great vino.

TerravantAnother shared production facility you're sure to hear about is the much ballyhooed Terravant in the small town of Buellton in the famed Santa Ynez Valley.  Terravent promises a shared tasting room and hospitality facility for its various producers, which should be a great boon to wine travelers. The facility is too new for me to know its complete client list, but I do know that Arcadian will be producing there in the 2008 vintage.

Tasting The Invisible Wineries
So, how does one taste the product of these "invisible wineries"?  Well, they would welcome you to join their wine clubs, of course.  Wine clubs provide a systematic way to sample wines from a favorite producer or area, and they can be easily joined online. But such sampling programs take a year or more to taste through the breadth of a winery's portfolio.  A more efficient way to taste the best efforts of these boutique producers is at a wine bar that features local products. This list of such tasting facilities will prove most helpful:

  • Totv Tastes of the Valleys, Solvang. Featured wineries include Arcadian, Au Bon Climat, Barrack, Barrel 27, Brochelle, Core, Labyrinth, Lane Tanner, Margerum, and Qupe. (Disclaimer, the author is part owner in this venture).  Premium beers and light snacks also available.
  • Wandering_dog Wandering Dog, Solvang. Featured wineries include Kenneth Crawford, Blair Fox Cellars, Falcone Family Vineyards, Nagy2, Kaena, Dragonette, Jalama, Departure Wine Co., Baehner-Fournier, Osseus and Flying Goat. They also offer some out-of-area wines, including some nice imports.
  • Wine_country Wine Country, Los Olivos. Featured wineries include Core, Flying Goat Cellars, Great Oaks Ranch, Huber, J. Wilkes, Qupe, Benjamin Silver Winery, Taz, Verdad, Waltzing Bear and Woodstock Ridge. Cigars and premium beers are also available for sale.
  • Fermentations, Cambria. It is difficult to give this shop a hearty recommendation, as I must admit I've never visited.  Their website promises "local wines from producers without a tasting room of their own" but the internet visitor is then asked to contact them via email for a list of said wineries. Hmmm.
  • Taste, San Luis Obispo. This venture has had its share of difficulties, but it is without a doubt the most technologically innovative way to taste. Visitors buy a payment card to use on their own from automated dispensers featuring wines from a range of SLO wineries.  Note, many of the wineries also have tasting rooms of their own. Regardless, it's a great way to taste local wines without driving.  Tastes is owned by the wineries whose wines are for sale there.

For those planning a visit to the burgeoning Central Coast wine country, I always recommend spendi